After two years of digital shows, the spring 2023 season saw a return to vibrant physical shows full of impressive venues and celebrity front rows while delivering new directional trends.
Among the leading message was a return to dressing up with a relaxed attitude that resulted in a fresh take on the ultra-fluid suit. Monochromatic denim looks and the early 2000s baggy jeans made a big comeback, infusing new energy into the iconic category. Daytime pajama dressing and silk sets reinforced a leisure-centric lifestyle. The mood continued with a celebration of the outdoors with gardening- and nature-inspired collections, while utility references — especially the cargo pocket — were omnipresent, making a case for a more dynamic and casual spring offering.
A relaxed silhouette with soft shoulder construction paired with big-volume flowy pleated pants emerged as the key tailoring message. Amiri, Giorgio Armani and Hed Mayner delivered some of the most directional and compelling examples of this effortless sartorial elegance.
The cargo fever of the early 2000s is making a comeback. From Craig Green’s love for uniforms and utilitarian clothing to Louis Vuitton’s shearling safari jacket with multicolored 3D cargo pockets, this practical trend has never looked so chic.
Kim Jones’ Dior show set of 19,000 plants recreating Mr. Dior’s home in Normandy, France, and the Bloomsbury group artist Duncan Grant’s in Sussex served as the ideal background for an elevated take on the garden- and hiking-inspired collection. Reese Copper’s botanical prints and Loewe’s real grass textures shooting upward from sneakers and coats provided depth and a conceptual art angle to the nature-loving trend.
The bohemian-loving pack was clearly represented in this leisure-inspired trend. The soft and shiny fabric found a new home in menswear for spring. Pajama pants at Blue Marble, glam shirts at Dries Van Noten and bright silk sets at Bianca Saunders were among the highlights.
American designers descended on the European runways, featuring new takes on classic Americana. Thom Browne’s sexy cowboy, Amiri’s patchwork varsity jackets and Rhude’s subverted take on preppy were among the best examples. The trend didn’t stop with the Americans. Kenzo, Celine and Dsquared2, to name a few, also joined in with insightful interpretations of the continent’s classics.
It has been more than 20 years since Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake made the Canadian tuxedo into an instant classic. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons revisited the concept with matching watches in jeans jackets and shorts. JW Anderson experimented with matching distressed techniques, while Bianca Sounders opted for early ’90s washes and silhouettes in her interpretation of the iconic denim suit.
Monochromatic pastel dressing and other soft shades dominated the runways and helped enhance the leisure-inspired attitude of the season. Some highlights included lilac suits at Y/Project, light pink ensembles at Soulland and seafoam looks at Officine Générale. Dopamine brights made cameos, serving as reminders that for this season’s menswear, the sky is the limit.