Filippo Grazioli’s first collection for Missoni since his appointment as creative director in March paid tribute to the house codes yet, at the same time, the designer took some steps to push the envelope.
“It was important to start from the seven decades of the brand’s history, and I wanted to be respectful of what the Missoni family has been doing, but I also would like to express my own point of view and build on the brand’s pillars,” Grazioli said. “I would like to accompany the brand into the future and refresh its identity, which is so strong and recognizable that I would never overhaul it completely.”
A graduate of Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design, Grazioli developed his career in Paris. During an internship at Staff International, he met Martin Margiela and went on to work with the designer on the women’s collections until 2013. In 2015, after a stint as senior women’s designer at Hermès, he made another important personal encounter, meeting Riccardo Tisci and becoming director of the collections at Givenchy. Grazioli then followed Tisci to become director of the runway collection at Burberry.
At Missoni, he started with “simplifying and structuring” the collection, thinking in terms of total looks, “easy to wear and coordinate,” while staying true to the brand’s luxury positioning. He believed the collection needed more daywear pieces and offered them in the form of skirts with lace details and slits with contrasting trimmings, paired with jersey polo shirts with knitted necklines.
He said he wanted to “light up” the palette, with plenty of white, bright yellow, magenta, cyan and pastels, including pink, which added a joyful touch to the lineup.
Grazioli reworked founder Ottavio Missoni’s artistic tapestry patterns in a new modern patchwork and elaborated the brand’s signature zigzags in monochrome hues.
Shapes were body-hugging but not constricting, with knee-length pencil skirts. Cardigans were feather-light, further contributing a youthful touch to the fresh and joyful collection.
The designer found an archival 1953 logo he applied on roomy denim pants, a segment that was also a welcome addition to the collection.